Once upon a time there was a district called TriBall

In a central location behind Gran Vía, you’ll find a series of streets forming a triangle around Calle Ballesta (hence the name, TriBall). The area used to be run down just a decade ago, but now it’s become the coolest place in Madrid.

Some are set on turning it into a kind of London Soho, others assume it has been christened after the famous Tribeca district in New York, but all agree on recognising the achievement of a district capable of reinventing itself without losing its personality and traditional essence.

Nestled between the busy Gran Vía, where all the fashion designer boutiques are, and Calle Fuencarral, full of more alternative shops, TriBall is not exactly a district, but rather an area delimited by the streets Gran Vía, Fuencarral and Corredera Baja de San Pablo, a short distance from the districts of Malasaña and Chueca and their extensive offerings of leisure, restaurant and shopping establishments.

The Ballesta triangle is full of historic, urban, architectural and literary references, and buildings of historic and cultural interest. Numerous writers, literary works and traditions are related to its streets. Despite its central location, over the years the area deteriorated both socially and architecturally. The result was total abandonment, which long-standing local residents and shopkeepers still lament. An initiative of a group of idealistic business people started the social redevelopment of the district—gentrification—, which also had its detractors as they were afraid that real estate improvements would force out residents.

This area can now be classified as modern and old at the same time, an apparent contradiction that you can understand when you stroll through its streets. Because in TriBall you can find the taverns, restaurants and shops of old alongside minimalist fashion boutiques, gastro bars with a current design or multipurpose venues. Although there is still much to change, the district contains more creative restaurants, vintage shops and cultural spaces than other areas. These are streets of contrasts, where you come across extremely old establishments among modern units.

Culture is represented by the Lara Theatre, a classic built in the 19th century that has incorporated an “Off” space, and the Alfil Theatre, a venue for alternative programmes for decades, as well as the increasingly popular micro theatres. Some cutting-edge fashion boutiques also usually organise urban art exhibitions and pop-up events. Leisure and food can be found in a variety of original places with an original, modern twist.

It’s impossible to define the district’s cuisine. You’ll find eateries that have been there for years, such as the traditional Casa Perico with good produce and friendly service, to macrobiotic food options. You can also decide to have brunch at the weekends, served in Maricastaña. And there are venues with meticulous decoration, such as the Bar Galleta. Lamucca is in Calle Pez and La Pescadería is close by. There are multi-purpose places, such as Kitchen Club, where you can learn to cook, do a gin tonic tasting course or organise a party with friends. Signature food is also found here, for example in La Tasquita de Enfrente by chef Juanjo López All this makes TriBall a must-visit place to discover the new Madrid.

Kikekeller, shop by day, drinks by night

One of the pioneers in the area was the KikeKeller shop and showroom, with modern suggestions for decorating spaces, and exhibitions. And at night, while all the other shops are sleeping peacefully, Kikekeller transforms into a “speakeasy” and fills up with night owls ready to have a good time, listen to music, have a drink and take home one of the decorative items surrounding them at the same time.

The old Luna cinema, TriBall’s kilometre zero

The Plaza de María Soledad Torres Acosta, site of the Luna cinema, is the natural centre of TriBall. However, until 2014 it had been mostly overlooked while the district was re-emerging. Today, the refurbished building, turned into a gym with a restaurant and terrace, has given the square back its importance as the hub of the cool district in Madrid.